The timeless appeal and visual impact of herringbone flooring have made it one of the most sought-after design choices for both traditional and contemporary homes. Its distinctive zig-zag pattern brings a sense of rhythm and movement to a space, transforming even the simplest room into something elegant and refined.
While beautiful, achieving a successful herringbone installation is not as straightforward as laying standard planks. This pattern demands meticulous planning, precise execution, and an understanding of how small details can affect the overall result. Without the right approach, the finished floor can look uneven or misaligned, detracting from its intended sophistication.
In this article, we’ll walk you through the key rules that lead to a flawless herringbone floor. From the crucial preparation steps before you begin, to mastering the layout, handling the installation process, and applying the perfect finishing touches, these guidelines will ensure your herringbone flooring project achieves a truly professional result.
The Crucial Preparation Phase (Before You Start)
A flawless herringbone floor starts long before the first plank is laid. Rushing into installation without careful preparation is one of the most common reasons projects fail. By taking the time to get the basics right, you’ll give yourself the best chance of a professional result that lasts for years.
Acclimatisation is Non-Negotiable
Herringbone flooring, like all wood and wood-based products, responds to its environment. Temperature and humidity fluctuations can cause planks to expand or contract. To minimise the risk of gapping, buckling, or warping, the flooring must be acclimatised in the room where it will be installed. This means leaving the packs unopened and flat on the floor for at least 48 hours before starting work. In rooms with particularly high or low humidity, extending this period to 72 hours or more is advisable. Skipping this step can undo all your hard work, leaving you with uneven joints or damaged planks.
Subfloor Perfection is Paramount
If there is one golden rule for herringbone flooring, it’s this: the subfloor must be flat, clean, and level. The precision of the herringbone pattern magnifies even the smallest imperfections, which can throw the design off course.
Level tolerance: A subfloor should have no more than 3mm deviation over a 2-metre span. Anything beyond this risks misalignment and instability.
Common fixes: For concrete, a self-levelling compound is often the best solution. For timber, replacing damaged boards or laying a sheet of plywood can create the necessary smooth base.
Moisture management: Especially on concrete subfloors, a moisture barrier is essential to protect the planks from dampness rising from below. This prevents swelling and long-term damage.
A perfectly prepared subfloor is not just recommended – it is absolutely essential for a successful herringbone result.
Material Choice Matters
Herringbone flooring is available in a variety of materials, and the right choice depends on your priorities for cost, durability, and installation method.
Solid wood herringbone: Luxurious and traditional, but more expensive and prone to movement from changes in humidity. It usually requires professional installation.
Engineered wood herringbone: A popular compromise, offering the look and feel of real wood with greater stability. More forgiving to fit and compatible with underfloor heating when properly specified.
Luxury vinyl herringbone (LVT): Highly durable, moisture-resistant, and budget-friendly. Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, or high-traffic spaces. It also tends to be easier for DIY installations.
By weighing up appearance, cost, and practicality, you can choose the material that suits both your space and your skill level.
Underfloor Heating Considerations
Many homeowners want to combine the beauty of herringbone with the comfort of underfloor heating. If this applies to you, check your material carefully. Solid wood is generally unsuitable, as it cannot handle the repeated cycles of heating and cooling. Engineered wood, on the other hand, is designed with layered construction that gives it stability, making it a safe choice when installed correctly. Luxury vinyl (LVT) is also highly compatible, provided you use products rated for underfloor heating systems.
Just remember: proper expansion gaps and the right adhesive (for glue-down methods) are essential to accommodate the subtle movement caused by fluctuating heat.
Mastering the Layout and Design
Once the preparation is complete, the next step is to map out the layout. This stage is all about vision and precision. A well-planned design ensures the herringbone pattern enhances the room rather than looking disjointed or unbalanced.
Finding the Focal Point
Every room has a natural sightline that draws the eye. This could be a fireplace, a set of French doors, a large bay window, or even the main entrance into the room. For the most striking effect, the centre of the herringbone “V” should align with this focal point. Doing so ensures the pattern looks intentional and balanced, giving the floor a sense of harmony with the space. Skipping this step may leave the pattern feeling off-centre, which is immediately noticeable in such a geometric design.
The 45-Degree Angle Rule
Traditionally, herringbone is laid at a 45-degree angle to the central axis of the room. This orientation creates a dynamic flow, guiding the eye diagonally across the space. Not only does this look sophisticated, but it can also influence the perception of room size. Laying the pattern lengthways can make a room feel longer, while positioning it widthways can create the illusion of added width. The choice should depend on whether you want to elongate or broaden the feel of the space.
Room Shape & Size Impact
The size and proportion of your planks play a vital role in the finished look. Narrower planks are often more suitable for compact rooms, as they keep the pattern balanced and avoid overwhelming the space. Larger planks, on the other hand, create a grander effect in big, open rooms, where smaller pieces might look too busy. Matching plank size to room proportions is a subtle yet powerful way to elevate the design.
Lighting Considerations
Light, whether natural or artificial, dramatically affects how herringbone flooring looks. Laying the planks so the pattern runs towards a main source of light (such as a window or glass doors) enhances the depth and texture of the design. In dimmer rooms, consider how overhead lighting or floor lamps will interact with the angles of the pattern. Proper orientation can highlight the grain, colour, and character of the flooring material, ensuring the herringbone looks its best at all times of day.
With or Without a Border
Borders are a classic feature in herringbone flooring, and they bring both aesthetic and practical benefits. A border frames the pattern, creating a sense of structure and luxury. It is also a clever way to handle uneven or slightly out-of-square walls, as the border disguises these imperfections. However, installing a border adds extra complexity, requires additional cutting, and typically increases both the time and cost of the project. If you are aiming for a traditional, high-end look, a border is worth considering; for a simpler, modern style, you may prefer to go without.
Room Transitions
Handling transitions between rooms is especially important in open-plan spaces where flooring flows continuously from one area to another. You can either continue the herringbone seamlessly across the transition, maintaining flow and consistency, or use transition strips to define separate zones. Transition strips are practical in cases where subfloor heights vary, or where you want to create subtle separation between spaces such as a kitchen and dining area. The choice depends on whether you want cohesion throughout or a more defined division between rooms.
The Installation Process: Step-by-Step
With the planning and layout finalised, it’s time to begin the installation. Herringbone demands patience and precision at every stage, so taking it step by step will help you achieve a professional result.
Establishing the “A” and “B” Planks
Herringbone patterns are built from pairs of planks, often referred to as “A” and “B” pieces. Together, these form the characteristic “V” shape. To begin, you’ll need to create the first central triangle, which sets the direction and alignment for the rest of the floor. This first row is critical, as even the smallest error here will be amplified across the room.
Use a chalk line or, better still, a laser level to mark out a perfectly straight starting point in line with your chosen focal point.
Place the first “A” and “B” planks carefully on this guide, ensuring they form a sharp, clean angle.
Double-check their alignment before proceeding, as this initial step dictates the accuracy of the entire floor.
Maintaining Consistency
Once the pattern is established, the priority is to keep it uniform.
Check alignment constantly: Every few rows, stand back and ensure the “V” shapes remain symmetrical and square to the room.
Expansion gaps: Leave a consistent expansion gap of around 10–15mm around the perimeter to allow for natural movement of the floor. Without this, planks may buckle or lift over time.
Large spaces: In very large rooms, intermediate expansion joints may be required to relieve pressure and prevent structural issues.
Consistency is the key to a polished finish, so take your time and never assume the pattern will stay straight without frequent checks.
Cutting and Fitting
Herringbone involves more cutting than straight plank flooring, particularly around edges, doorways, and obstacles.
Tools: A mitre saw is ideal for making clean, accurate angled cuts, while a jigsaw helps with irregular shapes around pipes or corners.
Tips: Always measure twice before cutting, and use offcuts to test tricky fits before committing to a final cut. When fitting against walls, ensure the pieces are snug but still allow for the expansion gap.
Safety: Cutting and handling adhesives can be hazardous. Always wear protective goggles, ear protection, and a dust mask, and ensure the workspace is well ventilated.
Adhesive or Click-System?
There are two main methods of installing herringbone flooring, and the right choice depends on the material and the look you want to achieve.
Glue-down installation: The traditional choice for wood herringbone, especially in parquet designs. It provides a stable, permanent finish and minimises movement, but it requires more skill and is time-consuming. Removing glued planks later can also be difficult.
Floating or click-system installation: Common in engineered wood and LVT herringbone. It’s faster, cleaner, and more DIY-friendly, as planks lock together without adhesive. However, it may not feel quite as solid underfoot, and expansion gaps become even more important to prevent shifting.
Both methods can deliver excellent results, but if you are aiming for the most professional, long-lasting finish in wood, glue-down is generally the better choice. For vinyl or for a simpler DIY project, click systems offer convenience with fewer technical demands.
Finishing and Maintenance
With the installation complete, the final stage is adding the finishing details and setting up a maintenance routine that keeps your herringbone floor looking its best for years to come. These last steps often make the difference between a floor that looks amateur and one that looks truly professional.
The Final Touches
Once the last plank is laid, you’ll notice the expansion gap running around the perimeter of the room. This space is essential for movement, but it also needs covering. The neatest way to conceal it is by refitting or installing new skirting boards, which overlap the edges of the flooring for a polished look. Alternatively, scotia beading can be fixed to existing skirting boards if you don’t want to remove them.
If you’ve used a glue-down method, inspect the floor carefully for any adhesive that may have squeezed up between joints. Wipe this away promptly with the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning solution, as dried adhesive can be stubborn to remove and may spoil the appearance of the finished pattern.
Sealing and Finishing (for Wood)
If you’ve chosen unfinished solid or engineered wood herringbone, the surface will need treating after installation. Light sanding ensures an even texture and removes any minor fitting marks. After this, apply a suitable sealant, oil, or hardwax finish to protect the wood and bring out its natural grain. The choice of finish will affect both the look and the level of protection – oils enhance warmth and depth, while lacquers provide a tougher, more durable coating for high-traffic areas.
Furniture Protection
Herringbone flooring looks elegant, but it can be vulnerable to scratches if not properly cared for. Adding felt pads to the base of furniture legs is a simple yet effective way to prevent damage when items are moved. For chairs or tables that are frequently shifted, consider using protective floor glides or a rug to reduce wear on the surface.
Long-Term Care
Ongoing maintenance is essential to preserve the appearance and longevity of your floor.
Cleaning routine: Regular sweeping or vacuuming prevents grit and dirt from scratching the surface. For deeper cleaning, use a damp (not wet) mop with a flooring cleaner recommended for your material.
Avoid harsh chemicals: Strong detergents, abrasive pads, or excessive water can damage both wood and vinyl finishes. Stick to pH-neutral cleaners designed for flooring.
Climate control: Try to keep indoor humidity consistent to minimise expansion and contraction of wood floors. In drier months, a humidifier can help maintain balance.
Preventative measures: Use doormats at entrances to reduce tracked-in debris, and avoid walking on the floor with stiletto heels or shoes with sharp points that can dent or scratch the surface.
With the right finishing touches and a sensible maintenance routine, your herringbone floor will continue to impress for decades.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with the best intentions, there are a few common pitfalls that can undermine a herringbone installation. Steering clear of these will save you time, money, and frustration.
Skipping acclimatisation: Installing planks straight out of the box often leads to gapping, buckling, or warping once the material adjusts to the room’s environment.
Neglecting subfloor preparation: A herringbone pattern will highlight every bump or dip in the base. An uneven subfloor is one of the fastest ways to ruin the look and stability of the floor.
Starting without a clear focal point: If the “V” isn’t aligned with a main sightline, the whole floor can appear crooked or unbalanced, no matter how carefully you fit the planks.
Forgetting expansion gaps: Without consistent spacing around the perimeter (and expansion joints in very large areas), floors are at risk of lifting or buckling under pressure.
Poor cutting technique: Rushed or inaccurate cuts around edges, pipes, and doorways create gaps that are hard to disguise. Always measure carefully and cut with the right tools.
Choosing the wrong material for the setting: Solid wood in a bathroom or over underfloor heating is a recipe for trouble. Engineered wood or LVT are far better suited to challenging environments.
Improper cleaning and maintenance: Using harsh chemicals or excessive water can strip finishes, damage planks, and shorten the life of the floor.
Avoiding these mistakes helps ensure your herringbone installation looks elegant, remains stable, and stands the test of time.
Frequently Asked Questions
General & Design Questions
Is herringbone flooring a timeless or trendy choice?
Herringbone is widely considered a timeless design. It has been used in grand European homes for centuries and continues to remain popular today. While it happens to be very on-trend at the moment, its classic appeal means it won’t go out of style anytime soon, making it a safe long-term investment.
What’s the difference between herringbone and chevron?
This is one of the most common points of confusion. The distinction lies in the plank shape and how they join:
Herringbone uses rectangular planks laid in a staggered “V” pattern, with each end butting against the side of another.
Chevron planks have angled ends, which fit together neatly to form a continuous zig-zag without any stagger.
What are the different types of herringbone patterns?
Beyond the classic herringbone, there are several variations that bring different character to a room. Double herringbone doubles up the planks for a bolder look, basket weave combines planks in square-like arrangements, and ladder patterns create a linear variation of the design. Each offers its own visual twist while retaining herringbone’s distinctive charm.
What colours and materials are available for herringbone flooring?
Herringbone is available in a wide range of woods such as oak, walnut, and maple, each offering unique tones and grain patterns. Alternative materials include engineered wood, laminate, and luxury vinyl tile (LVT), which provide more affordable or practical options. Colour choices range from traditional warm browns to contemporary greys, whites, and even bold black finishes.
Does herringbone flooring make a room look bigger or smaller?
It depends on the layout. Laying the pattern along the longest wall or in the direction of natural light tends to make a room feel more spacious. Narrower planks can also help prevent small rooms from feeling overwhelmed, while larger planks create grandeur in bigger spaces.
Where can I install herringbone flooring?
Herringbone can work in most rooms, provided the right material is chosen. Engineered wood is excellent for living rooms, bedrooms, and areas with underfloor heating. LVT herringbone is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and high-traffic spaces thanks to its moisture resistance and durability. Solid wood, while beautiful, is best avoided in damp or humid environments.
Do I need a border with a herringbone floor?
A border is optional but can elevate the design by framing the pattern and concealing uneven walls. It creates a more traditional, luxurious look, though it adds complexity and cost to the installation. For a clean, modern finish, you can choose to go without.
Installation & Practical Questions
Can I install herringbone flooring myself (DIY)?
While it’s possible for skilled DIYers, herringbone is one of the most challenging patterns to lay. It requires extreme precision, especially in the starting rows, as even small mistakes will multiply across the floor. Many homeowners choose to hire professionals to ensure a flawless finish.
Why is subfloor preparation so important?
Herringbone highlights imperfections more than straight planks. A subfloor must be level to within 3mm over a 2-metre span. For concrete, this may mean using a self-levelling compound; for timber, plywood or repair boards may be needed. Without proper preparation, the pattern will shift or gaps may form.
What’s the best way to start laying the pattern?
Begin by finding the room’s focal point – such as a fireplace or main doorway – and aligning your central “V” shape with it. Use a chalk line or laser level to create a perfectly straight starting line before laying your first “A” and “B” planks.
What about the expansion gap?
An expansion gap of around 10–15mm should be left around the entire perimeter to allow for natural movement. In very large rooms, intermediate expansion joints may also be necessary. Without these, the floor may lift or warp.
What tools are needed for installation?
Key tools include a mitre saw for clean angled cuts, a jigsaw for obstacles, a tape measure, spacers, a chalk line or laser level, and PPE such as goggles and ear protection. For glue-down installations, the correct adhesive and trowel are also essential.
What are the pros and cons of herringbone flooring?
Pros: Timeless aesthetic, adds character and value to a property, highly durable (depending on material), and works with many interior styles.
Cons: Higher cost of materials and labour, more installation waste, and requires precision fitting that can be complex for DIY projects.
How does herringbone flooring work with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood and LVT are both excellent choices for underfloor heating as they are more stable and resistant to movement. Solid wood should generally be avoided, as it can expand and contract excessively when exposed to fluctuating temperatures.
Is herringbone more expensive than other patterns?
Yes, herringbone typically costs more due to the intricate cuts, the greater amount of fitting labour, and a higher percentage of waste material compared with straight plank installations. However, many homeowners see the added expense as worthwhile given its elegance and long-lasting appeal.
Conclusion
Herringbone flooring is more than just a design choice – it’s a statement of elegance and craftsmanship. From careful preparation and precise layout to accurate installation and ongoing maintenance, every stage plays a vital role in achieving a flawless result. While the process demands patience and attention to detail, the reward is a floor that transforms your space with timeless style and undeniable sophistication.
If you’re ready to bring this classic pattern into your home, choosing the right material is the first step. At Wood and Beyond, you’ll find a wide selection of herringbone floors to suit every taste, budget, and lifestyle:
Herringbone Engineered Wood Flooring – the perfect blend of tradition and modern stability.
Herringbone LVT Flooring – durable, moisture-resistant, and ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and high-traffic areas.
Herringbone Laminate Flooring – a stylish and budget-friendly option with easy installation.
Explore the full range today and discover how herringbone flooring can elevate your home with enduring beauty and value.
