Decking oil. Decking oil, as the name suggests, is an oil based decking treatment which allows all the natural beauty of your wood to shine through.  A good quality decking oil will protect your deck at the same time as reviving and restoring its colour.  Decking oils come in a range of colours, including clear and can dramatically change the colour of your decking if you’re not careful.  It is for this reason that it’s recommended to try any new colour of decking oil you plan to use in an inconspicuous part of your deck before attacking the whole deck and regretting it.  Oils with UV filters are also available for anyone who might be concerned about the effects of the sun on their deck.

Decking stain. Decking stain, as you’d imagine, is intended for use by those people seeking to change the colour of their deck.  Available in either a straight colour-altering option or as a stain and seal option, decking stain comes in a range of colours to suit your requirements.  The advantage of a stain and seal decking product over a straight stain is that your wood is coloured and protected in one single treatment.  Normally requiring 2-3 coats, a stain and seal deck stain will either have a matt or satin finish depending upon the product you choose.

Decking paint. Although commonly used in the United States, decking paint is thought by some European purists as being quite a drastic option when it comes to treating your deck.  Deemed by some as completely sacrilegious, depending on the condition of your deck and your desired look, with a bit of planning, decking paint can be a good solution.  The main issue with painting a deck is keeping it looking good as weather and time take their toll.  If not properly finished, a painted deck has a tendency to peel and look worn quicker than, for example, an oiled deck.  Although you can help prevent this deterioration by introducing a high quality deck sealer to your project, painting a deck does appear to be a bit of an ongoing battle.

Decking preservative. Decking preservative is the generic term used to describe any specialist decking product which is designed to protect the wood.  Generally speaking the list will include oils and seals.  Which you choose will depend to a large extent on the final finish you’re hoping for and the condition of your deck.  As with all products, if you’re in any doubt as to which decking preservative might best suit your specific needs for your project, you should always double check with your decking supplier or a trusted DIY shop.

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Lawn. Lawn, if laid and maintained properly is a stunning backdrop for any garden, formal or informal.  That said, if you’re looking for a space to set up an outside eating or relaxing area, lawn is unlikely to be your best bet.  With a tendency to hold water after a downpour, the last thing you’d want when enjoying your fine dining is wet feet and muddy shoes!  What’s more the wear and tear caused by the traffic on terrace or patio isn’t ideally suited to most lawns.

Concrete. Although concrete can look cold and basic, with a bit of imagination and shopping around, you’ll be able to find a concrete solution which makes a great outdoor space.  Available in precast units; ready to pour varieties and with a whole host of tint options, concrete terraces are long-lasting, quick to construct and easy to maintain.  What’s more you can even use concrete to create terraces which look convincingly like stone and tile.

Railway sleepers. Using railway sleepers is an extremely popular way of dressing gardens these days and can be used to create some stunning effects, when it comes to creating borders, raised beds, decks and paths.  The downside of this option as an alternative to garden decking, is that it’s likely to prove expensive, no matter whether you choose to invest in reclaimed or new railway sleepers.  That said, if price isn’t an issue for your project, the effects created by railway sleepers can be superb.

Brick, slate and stone. Brick, slate and stone have been used for many years to create interesting and eye-catching terraces and patios.  Extremely hard-wearing and suggesting quality, each of these options offer a whole host of different design solutions, both modern and traditional.  That said, many people shy away from brick, slate and stone for two man reasons.  One is the price and the other is the skill which is required to successfully lay the terrace.  The latter is likely to be a particular issue if you’re planning a DIY project.

Gravel. Gravel is a seriously low-budget option if you’re looking for a hard, outdoor surface solution.  Not celebrated for its beauty, its comfort under foot or its stability when it comes to placing and moving chairs and tables, gravel is nevertheless a good option if cash is in limited supply.  If you do opt for gravel for your patio or terrace, it’s definitely worth shopping around to look at the different colour and size options before committing to a standard gravel.

Tiles. Tiles are a very popular terrace and patio covering in continental Europe.  Where the climate is warm, tiling can be a really effective way of flooring your outside space.  That said, in the UK, tiles can appear very cold in winter and, without the right surface or make-up, can take harm from extreme temperatures as well as becoming slippery when wet.

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Here’s how to calculate your decking area:

If your deck is square or rectangular, calculating its area couldn’t be easier.  In this case, order to calculate the total surface area of your deck, all you need to do is measure the length and width of your deck and then multiply one by the other.  For example, if your deck is 10m long and 8m wide, the calculation is 10m x 8m = 80m2.  Once you’ve calculated the surface area of your deck, you need to add 5% to the total, to allow for wastage.  In the example we’ve given, the calculation for wastage is 80m2 x 5% = 4m2.  So, in this instance, you’d need to order 80m2 + 4m2 = 84m2 of decking in total.

If your deck is an “odd” shape, the best way to tackle the project is to split your deck into square or rectangular “chunks” which you can mark out on your plan; measure; calculate and add together to reach your total decking area.  Although this can seem more complicated to begin with, you should find that, with a bit of consideration, your deck is easily split into neat and easy to measure chunks.  NOTE: Once again, don’t forget to add your 5% for wastage.

When you’re measuring your decking plans, it’s important not to forget to allow for steps and any other areas which may be tucked away from the main area of your deck before placing your final order.

Because most decking is sold and priced in m2, it’s best to measure your deck in m2.  A m2 of decking is a section of decking which measures exactly one metre by one metre.  That said, decking is normally sold in packs, which may, or may not measure exactly one m2 (in most cases it won’t).  If this is the case, your decking supplier will normally provide you with an accurate indication of the m2 covered by each pack, allowing you to calculate with confidence.

IMPORTANT: No matter what size your deck, you should always allow for the 5% wastage as this will allow you to complete your project in the knowledge that you’re not going to run out of deck.

Finally, many decking suppliers offer decking calculators to help simplify things, but these calculators still rely on accurate measurements, so it’s important to be careful with your measurements, even if you’re using an online calculator!

Prior to fitting, in order to make wooden worktops resistant to stains, they need to be treated with a protective oil.  When choosing an oil for your worktops, if you want to prepare food directly on the worktop surface, it is important that you choose a food-safe oil.

Food-safe oil is easy enough to track down.  With a bit of research, you will be able to track down official guidelines on the suitability of any product you plan to use in conjunction with food preparation.  It is really important that you carry out appropriate toxicity research before applying any oil to your worktop if you plan to prepare food directly on the worktop.  That said, once you have carried out this research, if you are still in any doubt whatsoever about the suitability of the oil, you should consult your worktop supplier who will be able to guide you.

One important thing to bear in mind when oiling your worktop is not to use vegetable oil or olive oil to treat your wooden worktop.  Treating your worktop with these oils is is not a good idea if you’re wanting to use your worktop directly for food preparation.  The reason for this is that these oils effectively “rot” in the wood and cause a build up of bacteria, potentially making your worktop unsafe for food preparation.

When it comes to regular maintenance and cleaning of your worktop to make it safe for food preparation, a regularly oiled (treated with food-safe oil) wood worktop is as easy to clean and maintain as any other worktop.  All you need to do is make sure that you mop up any spills which occur and could result in bacterial build up.  Thereafter, a regular wipe down with a mild detergent will keep your worktop clean and safe.

All of that said, if you are using your wood worktop for direct food preparation, you need to be really careful not to inadvertently damage the surface with knives or other sharp objects.

Fine sandpaper helps remove surface burns

If you have a solid wood worktop, it’s really important to look after it well and to take every precaution you can to prevent damage.  That said, even with the best will in the world, accidents do happen.  There are any number of reasons why you might find yourself with a burn on your worktop, for example, caused by placing a hot pan or serving dish directly on the surface or from a stray spark from a match you’ve used to light your gas.  Either way the first thing you must do is try to establish how deep the burn goes.

In most instances, minor, surface burns are easily dealt with.  The best way to tackle a minor burn is to either sand or scrape the burned surface away using fine sandpaper or a brass bristle brush.  When you’re doing this, you need to be careful to work with the grain of the wood and bear in mind that you may need to sand around the area using a fine sandpaper at the end, to help blend the worked area with the rest of your worktop.  Once you’ve removed all trace of the burn, wipe the worktop clean and leave it to dry thoroughly.  Once dry, simply apply an appropriate food-safe finish, to match the rest of your worktop.  Repeat the oiling process until the patch that has been treated disappears.

If the burn on your worktop is deep, you may find that you need to scrape or cut away the surface to remove the burned wood and then use a filler to repair the resulting damage.  Depending on the extent of the damage, you should find that either a specialist scratch hider or a putty stick will do the job nicely.  If you prepare food directly on your worktop, one thing to bear in mind when filling your worktop is to make sure that any product you is food-safe.

With a bit of research, you should be able to track down official guidelines on the suitability of any product you plan to use to fill repairs in your worktop.  It is really important to carry out toxicity research before applying any product to your worktop. Once you have carried out this research, if you are still in any doubt about a product’s suitability, you should consult your solid worktop supplier who will be able to guide you.  Once you’ve filled your worktop with a suitable filler, you’ll be able to sand down the area, clean it and finish it with your selected oil.

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Here are 4 simple steps to getting your decking looking great again:

1. Check to see if your deck has a surface coating, such as a varnish or lacquer. If your deck does have a surface coating or finish, you’ll need to start by stripping away that coating.  You need to remove the old coating to get access to the wood to give it a really deep-down clean.  If your deck doesn’t have a surface coating or finish, you should start your restoration process with a thorough clean (see step 3. Below) because uncoated wood is likely to have a covering of dirt, grime and fungus which needs to be removed before a new finish can be applied.
2. If your deck has a varnish or lacquer, it’s important to use a specific deck stripper which is suited to the particular finish on your deck.  If you are in any doubt about the finish on your deck, or which stripper would best suit your specific project, a good deck supplier or DIY shop will be able to help.
3. Once you have exposed the bare wood of your deck, a power washer or a solution of general purpose deck cleaner and a stiff brush should be used to remove all traces of dirt and fungus to expose the clean wood underneath.
4. Once your wood is as clean as you can get it, it’s time to apply your chosen sealer, stain or coating to protect the wood.  It is important to choose protection which will help your deck withstand the weather conditions it comes up against.  When choosing the right finish for your deck, it’s worth deciding what sort of finish you want and also whether or not you want to protect your deck from discolouration caused by the sun.  Either way, it’s important to protect the wood from water damage, fungus and insects.  Once again, if you are in any doubt about the most suitable product to protect your deck (eg.  if you live in an area with extreme weather conditions or specific risk of insect attack), ask a decking expert for specific guidance for your project.

As with all projects involving paints and chemicals, be careful to follow the manufacturers instructions for use and respect all Health and Safety guidelines to the letter.

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Fine wire wool drenched in lemon oil often works!

When it comes to stains on wooden worktops, it has to be said that prevention is always better than cure.  That said, even with the very best prevention in place, stains can, and do happen.  Although knowing the cause of the stain may help in some instances, we have assumed for the purpose of this blog post that your goal is to get rid of stains of a general nature.

It may be that the stains on your worktop are concentrated into the high traffic areas (ie.  areas where you work most often) or they may be general and widespread across the whole of your worktop.  If the stains are general and widespread across the whole of your worktop, there is little doubt that a full re-sand and re-finish will work out more effective and more efficient, both time and cost-wise.

That said, if you only have random stains here and there, you should be able to tackle these and remove them effectively without going to the extent of a complete re-sand and re-finish.  Generally speaking stains on worktops fall into two categories: surface and deep.  Most surface and deep stains are caused by trapped moisture.  Generally speaking if the stain is white, it’s only on the surface, if it’s black or dark, it has had a chance to penetrate deeper into the wood.

Surface stains can generally be removed by rubbing with a pad of really fine wire wool drenched in lemon oil to help avoid damage.  Simply rub the stained surface with the wool and the stain should disappear.

Here is a step-by-step guide of what you should do for deeper stains:

1. Lightly sand away the finish on your worktop, always working in the direction of the grain.  This will give you access to the wood itself.
2. Brush or blot bleach onto the stained area.  Although bleach products are not normally recommended on your finished worktop, they work well on stains.  You may need to do this repeatedly to remove the stain.  If needs be, you can leave the bleach soaking into the stain overnight.  If standard domestic bleach doesn’t work then your worktop supplier will be able to provide you with commercial wood bleach which should do the trick (but be sure to follow the instructions to the letter, including neutralization).  Really deep stains may need to be scraped away, but try to avoid this if you can.
3. Once the stain has gone to your satisfaction, it’s a case of cleaning the area thoroughly, allowing it to dry and finishing your worktop with a good quality, food-safe oil.
4. When finishing your worktop, remember to work in layers, so you can build up to the same colour you had before.

Wood is a completely natural product and as such changes with the atmosphere in which it finds itself. Kitchens are particularly challenging places for wood and it’s for this reason that all wooden worktops need to be well prepared and maintained in order to stay looking their best.

The first, basic level of protection you can afford your worktops is to keep a regular eye out for leaks or spills. Leaky plumbing can cause havoc with wooden worktops and is best dealt with as a matter of urgency. Thereafter, high moisture content of a general nature can cause long-term problems which appear gradually over time. If you’re aware of any damp or potentially damp areas in your kitchen, it’s important to make sure you keep a close eye on your worktop and make sure it’s well treated to withstand the moisture it encounters.

Before you fit your worktop you should oil the wood to prevent general warping and bowing, but also to protect against possible water damage. Oiling your worktop well will give it a great water-resistant finish and will help the wood stay in good condition longer.

Here are our Top Tips for oiling your worktop to prevent water damage and keep it looking great:

1. Choose a good quality oil such as Danish Oil, which is a blend of tung and polymerised linseed oil (plus a few added extras to help keep your wood looking good).

2. Oil every surface of your worktop (including all the edges and the underside). Two generous coats of oil should be sufficient on the underside and the non-exposed edges, but on the exposed surfaces, ideally you should aim to add at least three to five light coats of oil to ensure water resistance.

3. To oil the surfaces of your worktop, use a soft, clean, dry cloth and work in the direction of the grain. Simply pour your oil directly on to the worktop and smooth it towards the edges along the grain. Leave the oil to penetrate for a few minutes before re-working each application to make sure the coating is evenly distributed.

IMPORTANT: Although oiling is a great way to protect your worktop from water damage, it’s really important to check regularly for leaks or excessive moisture and to mop up spills as soon as practically possible.

Here are a few basic steps to help restore your wood flooring:

1. Preparation
2. Sanding
3. Staining (if you are planning to stain your floor)
4. Finishing

Preparation

In order to prepare your floor for restoration, you need to clear the room of all furniture, curtains, rugs and ornaments.  Basically, anything that can be removed from the room should be removed.   When you are removing heavy items, remember to lift them and not drag them across your floor, which could result in damage.

Once your room is clear, check the floor’s surface for any protruding nails or staples, which should be either hammered into the floor or removed, otherwise they’ll cause havoc when it comes to sanding.  This is also a great opportunity to fix any loose boards as well as the right time for identifying any deep staining which you will need to sand a bit more aggressively than the rest of the floor.

Sanding

There is no doubt that the easiest way to restore your wood flooring to its former glory is by hiring a floor sander.  Ideally you’ll need two types of sander.  The first is a drum stander and the second an edge sander.  You’ll need to hire both to achieve a great result.  The sandpaper required for these sanders is completely different and will be supplied by the hire company.  It’s important to make sure you have a coarse and a finer sandpaper in “stock” when you start the job.  The initial sanding should be done with the coarser paper and the finishing sanding with the finer paper.  As with all machinery, it’s important to respect the Health and Safety guidelines you will receive when you hire the sanders.

It is during the sanding process that you’ll see any holes, deep scratches or chips which need to be filled or repaired.

Staining

Staining is an optional part of the restoration process for your wooden flooring, but if you decide you want to stain your floor, now is the time to do it.  To get a good result, you should work in full widths of your room and start by painting the stain and finish by wiping it with a soft, dry cloth.

Finishing

Irrespective of whether or not you decide to stain your floor, the finish is a really important part of restoring your wood floor.  Once you have selected your finish, you should start to apply it to the perimeter of your room and work inwards and towards the exit of your room, to minimise the risk of stepping on flooring you’ve just treated.  Depending on the type of finish you’ve chosen, you will need to apply up to 3 coats.  It’s a good idea to carry out a light sanding between coats.  Finally, make sure your finish is completely dry before replacing your furnishings (the manufacturers instructions will give you a guide to drying time).

One of the most important things which will need to be clarified before installing wood floor over vinyl is the make up of the subfloor beneath the vinyl floor.  One of the key things stressed by all wood floor suppliers is that wood flooring should be installed over an appropriate subfloor.  Appropriate subfloors include existing wood flooring and concrete.  Such subfloors create a stable base for the installation of your new wood floor.

Once you have established that your vinyl floor has been laid over an appropriate subfloor for your new wooden floor, you will then need to check out is whether or not the vinyl flooring is properly and securely attached to that subfloor.  It if happens that the vinyl flooring is not well secured to the subfloor, then it could ultimately cause movement in the new wood floor.

Thereafter, if your vinyl flooring is laid over existing floorboards, it is important to establish the direction in which the old boards are running.  This is important because when laying new boards over old, it is essential that the new boards run perpendicular (or at 90 degrees) to the old boards for stability.

Whether or not the vinyl is cushioned is a further important consideration.  In some instances, a cushioned vinyl could cause your new floor to squeak.  While certain types of squeak can be minimised by the introduction of an appropriate underlay, it’s essential to make sure that you are installing your new floor over the right type of subfloor and not creating problems for later.  If you are in any doubt whatsoever, then it’s well worth asking the advice of a professional.

One final thing to bear in mind, particularly if you are thinking of installing new wood flooring over vinyl in a renovation project is that it’s not outside the bounds of possibility that there could be a really attractive original floor lurking under the vinyl!  For many years, vinyl was laid over perfectly good wood flooring to create a more ‘up to date’ (at the time) look.  The end result is that the original wood flooring (aka reclaimed wood flooring) could be waiting under the vinyl, just waiting for its renaissance.