Here are a few basic steps to help restore your wood flooring:

1. Preparation
2. Sanding
3. Staining (if you are planning to stain your floor)
4. Finishing

Preparation

In order to prepare your floor for restoration, you need to clear the room of all furniture, curtains, rugs and ornaments.  Basically, anything that can be removed from the room should be removed.   When you are removing heavy items, remember to lift them and not drag them across your floor, which could result in damage.

Once your room is clear, check the floor’s surface for any protruding nails or staples, which should be either hammered into the floor or removed, otherwise they’ll cause havoc when it comes to sanding.  This is also a great opportunity to fix any loose boards as well as the right time for identifying any deep staining which you will need to sand a bit more aggressively than the rest of the floor.

Sanding

There is no doubt that the easiest way to restore your wood flooring to its former glory is by hiring a floor sander.  Ideally you’ll need two types of sander.  The first is a drum stander and the second an edge sander.  You’ll need to hire both to achieve a great result.  The sandpaper required for these sanders is completely different and will be supplied by the hire company.  It’s important to make sure you have a coarse and a finer sandpaper in “stock” when you start the job.  The initial sanding should be done with the coarser paper and the finishing sanding with the finer paper.  As with all machinery, it’s important to respect the Health and Safety guidelines you will receive when you hire the sanders.

It is during the sanding process that you’ll see any holes, deep scratches or chips which need to be filled or repaired.

Staining

Staining is an optional part of the restoration process for your wooden flooring, but if you decide you want to stain your floor, now is the time to do it.  To get a good result, you should work in full widths of your room and start by painting the stain and finish by wiping it with a soft, dry cloth.

Finishing

Irrespective of whether or not you decide to stain your floor, the finish is a really important part of restoring your wood floor.  Once you have selected your finish, you should start to apply it to the perimeter of your room and work inwards and towards the exit of your room, to minimise the risk of stepping on flooring you’ve just treated.  Depending on the type of finish you’ve chosen, you will need to apply up to 3 coats.  It’s a good idea to carry out a light sanding between coats.  Finally, make sure your finish is completely dry before replacing your furnishings (the manufacturers instructions will give you a guide to drying time).

One of the most important things which will need to be clarified before installing wood floor over vinyl is the make up of the subfloor beneath the vinyl floor.  One of the key things stressed by all wood floor suppliers is that wood flooring should be installed over an appropriate subfloor.  Appropriate subfloors include existing wood flooring and concrete.  Such subfloors create a stable base for the installation of your new wood floor.

Once you have established that your vinyl floor has been laid over an appropriate subfloor for your new wooden floor, you will then need to check out is whether or not the vinyl flooring is properly and securely attached to that subfloor.  It if happens that the vinyl flooring is not well secured to the subfloor, then it could ultimately cause movement in the new wood floor.

Thereafter, if your vinyl flooring is laid over existing floorboards, it is important to establish the direction in which the old boards are running.  This is important because when laying new boards over old, it is essential that the new boards run perpendicular (or at 90 degrees) to the old boards for stability.

Whether or not the vinyl is cushioned is a further important consideration.  In some instances, a cushioned vinyl could cause your new floor to squeak.  While certain types of squeak can be minimised by the introduction of an appropriate underlay, it’s essential to make sure that you are installing your new floor over the right type of subfloor and not creating problems for later.  If you are in any doubt whatsoever, then it’s well worth asking the advice of a professional.

One final thing to bear in mind, particularly if you are thinking of installing new wood flooring over vinyl in a renovation project is that it’s not outside the bounds of possibility that there could be a really attractive original floor lurking under the vinyl!  For many years, vinyl was laid over perfectly good wood flooring to create a more ‘up to date’ (at the time) look.  The end result is that the original wood flooring (aka reclaimed wood flooring) could be waiting under the vinyl, just waiting for its renaissance.

The first method involves the re-heating of the wax in order to remove it.  The most effective and gentlest way of doing this is to use a hairdryer or warm iron to gradually bring the candle wax back to its liquid form.  If you are using a hairdryer, it’s a simple case of applying enough heat until you can see the candle wax becoming liquid again.  If you are using an iron, you’ll need a brown paper bag and a dry iron, set on low.  Simply iron lightly over the brown paper bag (which you placed over the candle wax stain) and allow the bag to draw up the wax.  If the candle wax stain is extensive, you may need more than one piece of paper to soak it all up.  If you use the hairdryer method of heating the candle wax, once you have the wax back to a liquid consistency, it’s a case of blotting it up until it has been completely removed (a number of people suggest ladies tights or stockings or a gentle nylon scourer as the most effective tools to do this job).

The second method of removing candle wax from wood floors is to chill it and then remove it.   What you need to be careful with when adopting this method of removing candle wax from your wood floor is that you don’t scratch the floor.  In order to chill down the wax, apply ice in a freezer bag to the patch of floor which has been stained by candle wax.  Once the ice is in contact with the candle wax, it will cause it to harden and become brittle.  When the candle wax is hard and brittle, you should be able to chip it away from your floor.  Remember to work gently in order to avoid causing damage.

If you do find that the surface of your floor has become slightly damaged after the removal of the candle wax, you may find that you have to re-sand, re-stain and finish that small part of your wood floor.

Top Tip - Place A Piece Of Rug Below Furniture When Moving It Around!

If you’ve installed wood flooring, the last thing you’ll want is to cause damage to your floor either by your day-to-day activities or with your furniture.  Wood flooring looks great and will withstand most wear and tear, but you do need to be careful when it comes to moving furnishings.

One of worst causes of damage to wood flooring is the moving of furniture prior to or during your cleaning process.  Unfortunately, it’s only too common for people to make way for their cleaning process by dragging their furniture around their room.  To stop furniture from damaging wood floors prior to and during your cleaning process, it is really important that you take time to make sure that you lift and don’t drag furnishings when moving them from place to place.  If, for any reason, you do find that you need to drag furniture, a top tip is to carefully place a thick rug or a piece of carpet under the item and then slide the item gently across the floor.  That said, there’s no doubt that it’s best not to drag furniture over your wooden floor at all if possible.

Another way to stop furniture from damaging your wood floors is to invest in protective cups, mats or pads.  Once you’ve bought them, make sure you place them under all table and chair legs which come in contact with your wood floor.  The introduction of these protective cups, mats or pads will stop your furnishings from having direct contact with your floor and will help stop your furniture from damaging your wood floor.

Particularly heavy items of furniture also pose an increased risk to your wood floor and need specific treatment.  The worst type of weight from a wood flooring point of view is any weight which is unevenly distributed and, or concentrated on legs or feet.  In order to demonstrate, imagine a really heavy sofa which distributes its weight on to six or eight, relatively pointed feet and you’ll get the idea.  If you want to protect your wooden floor from this type of furniture damage, the only way is to place rubber protectors or cups under the feet to stop the floor’s surface from being pierced by the weight or to place a board under the item of furnishing to help distribute the weight more evenly, thus reducing the risk of damage.

You Don't Want To Fit Wood In Such Conditions

When you install wood flooring, it is essential that you are aware of the moisture content of the subfloor on which you will lay your new floor as well as the moisture content of the wood flooring you are about to lay.  Moisture testing can be as detailed or as approximate as your job warrants but it is something you choose to ignore at your peril.  That said, all moisture testing of wood flooring comes with an appropriate “Health Warning” which states that the moisture levels tested can only ever be a snapshot of what the conditions are at any one time and are no guarantee of what may or may not happen in the future.

If you plan to have your floor professionally installed, your floor fitter should have made allowances in his project plan for the accurate moisture testing of both your subfloor and your new flooring product.  What’s more, he or she should have the skills and the tools to do the job effectively and evidence to you that the job has been done correctly.

If you are planning wood flooring moisture testing on a DIY basis, this is a completely different proposition and should be approached with preparation and a degree of caution.  As well as the use of moisture meters, there are three commonly used moisture testing methods for concrete.  They are:

1. The Calcium Chloride Test
2. The Polyfilm Test
3. The Phenolphthalein Test

The Calcium Chloride Test is one of the oldest and most commonly used moisture tests for concrete sub floors.  This test involves the sealing of a small plastic dish of anhydrous calcium crystals over a sanded or scratched concrete surface for anything between 60 and 72 hours.  The moisture content of the concrete is determined by the difference in weight between the crystals at the start of the test and at the end.  The test results will be expressed in grams per square meter by the testing centre.

The Polyfilm Test is somewhat less scientific, but equally effective, some argue.  This test involves the taping of several large pieces of plastic film in key locations over the concrete floor.  If there are signs of moisture on or around the polyfilm after 24 hours eg.  condensation or darkening of the concrete, then further testing or drying out is required

The Phenolphthalein Test involves drilling holes in the concrete and inserting drops of the test solution into the holes.  Colour changes in the solution indicate moisture.

When it comes to the moisture testing of the wood flooring itself, most professional flooring suppliers suggest that new flooring should be left to acclimatise in its new environment prior to fitting.

As a general rule of thumb, most woods change colour in response to ultra violet light.  In the same way that skin changes colour as a result of exposure to sunlight, wood also changes colour.  Funnily enough however, some woods go darker as a result to exposure to sunlight and others become lighter.  Although ultra violet protections are available, they will not protect your wood floor 100% against the effects of sunlight.

Solid wood comes in different grades of wood from prime through to rustic, with prime being deemed to be the highest quality, with the corresponding price tag.  Prime grade wood, generally speaking, will change colour less than lower grades of wood, such as rustic grade wood flooring.

When you choose your wood flooring, there will be several things you’ll have in mind.  One of course is budget, the others will include such things as whether engineered or solid wood flooring would best suit your project and of course the colour of the wood.  Extremely dark (almost black) wood floors have become very popular in recent years and are at risk of changing colour once fitted if not protected from ultra violet light.  Unlike some of the lighter species of wood, such as cherry and oak, which have a tendency to darken with sunlight, the darker shades of wood tend to lighten which can be frustrating.

In order to retain the initial colour of your wood floor and to help prevent it from changing colour too dramatically, it is a good idea to apply a finish which includes a sunscreen to block some of the damaging ultra violet rays.  Other practical solutions include the closing of blinds or curtains when the sun is particularly strong or by fitting ultra violet sunscreens to your windows.  This is an ideal way of protecting all of your furnishings from changing colour as a result of exposure to the effects of the sun, and not only your wood floor.

Conservatories are great places to enjoy a moment of peace, to socialise or even for use as a playroom or office. The type of wood flooring you choose for your conservatory is likely to be, first and foremost, affected by the purpose of the room.

If your conservatory is used as a kitchen, for example, solid wood flooring would be a less appropriate choice than engineered wood flooring.  Wood flooring in kitchens get a tough time and the risk of high moisture levels, both from machines springing leaks and from the moisture naturally occurring in the air in kitchens mean you need to plan ahead carefully.  Solid wood flooring in kitchens alone, let alone conservatory kitchens, are at a high risk of regular expansion and contraction due to moisture.  This rapid expansion and contraction can, in turn, lead to warping and splitting.  As a result, if you use your conservatory as a kitchen, the best wood flooring for your conservatory is likely to be engineered wood flooring.

Engineered wood flooring will withstand temperature and moisture changes much more than solid wood thanks to its construction.  Engineered wood flooring is made up from layers of plywood topped by a solid oak lamella or top layer.  It is this clever structure of engineered wood flooring which allows it to withstand heat and moisture fluctuations better than solid wood.

Generally speaking, no matter the purpose of your conservatory, engineered wood flooring is likely to be a safer option than solid wood.  Even if your conservatory isn’t south facing, it is likely to build up much higher temperatures than other rooms in the home which will impact on the floor, causing it to expand and contract.  It is for this reason that engineered wood flooring is the preferred option.

One other thing to bear in mind when choosing wood flooring for conservatories, is that it is a good idea to invest in a UV treated (ultra violet) finish because this will reduce the effect of light on the colour of your floor.  Although this option may add to the initial cost of your project, you will be pleased in the long run that you thought ahead.

Wood is a natural product and as such expands and contracts with changes in moisture and temperature.  Solid wood, as the name suggests is made from one single piece of wood and is highly susceptible to expansion and contraction due to atmospheric changes.  Although engineered wood flooring is made from a combination of plywood and a solid oak lamella or top layer, it still suffers some expansion and contraction with atmospheric fluctuations.

So, while engineered wood flooring withstands temperature and moisture changes much better than solid wood, you should still anticipate a small element of expansion and contraction.  As a result, when it comes to installing engineered wood flooring you must leave an expansion gap, otherwise you could come up against severe problems in the future.

Expansion gaps should be left wherever the floor comes up against a fixed object, for example, next to a wall, a doorway or a heating pipe.  A general rule of thumb is that you should allow 1.5mm expansion gap all around the room and wherever there is a fixed object.  There are also guidelines for large rooms, which recommend an expansion gap allowance for (on average) every 12 metres of length and 8 metres of width.  That said, if you are in any doubt about how much of an expansion gap and how often an expansion gap should be left when fitting your engineered wood flooring, you should seek the advice of an expert.  Extra time invested in planning at the start of the project will save nasty surprises and problems later in the day.

When it comes to fitting methods for engineered wood flooring, there are various options and one of the most common and most popular is the glue-down method.  If you are opting for a full glue-down method of installation for your engineered wood flooring, this is the only time when expansion gaps are not required when working over large areas.  That said, you must still, even in the glue-down method of installation, allow a 1.5mm expansion gap where your engineered wood flooring meets a fixed object to allow for expansion and contraction.

Painting a wood floor will enhance most styles of interior and shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg.  Here are the various steps to help you paint your wood floor:

1. Clear the room of all furnishings and rugs, remembering to lift and not to drag heavy items which could chip or severely scratch your floor.
2. Sand the area to be painted.  If you plan to paint the whole wood floor, it’s a good idea to hire a floor sander because the cost won’t break the bank and will give you great, quick results.
3. When the sanding process is complete, it’s important to let the dust settle and vacuum the floor thoroughly before mopping at least a couple of times with a moist microfiber mop.  It is really important to make sure that the whole area is free of dust before you start to paint your wood floor.
4. If you choose to include a primer in your project, now is the time to apply it.  The best way to apply both the primer and your paint is with a roller as it will give an even and widespread coat in minimal time.
5. If you are painting your whole wood floor the same colour, you will be ready to apply your paint as soon as the primer has thoroughly dried (check the tin for drying times if you’re in any doubt).  That said, if you are planning on being adventurous and painting a pattern on to your wood floor, you will need to mark up and tape out the pattern before you start.  NB.  Wood floor pattern painting is quite an ambitious project and depending upon the detail and your skills can either provide an eye-catching end result or end up a bit of a disaster.  So if you’re in any doubt at all, try out your ideas in an inconspicuous part of your room before going wild all over!
6. Once your painting is complete and you’re happy that the coverage is even and uniform, it’s time to coat the floor with clear varnish or a water based clear coat.  Two to three coats of protection are likely to be required and will help your new-look flooring stay looking good for longer. Once again, follow the instructions on the tin carefully and make sure each coat is completely dry before going on to the next coat.  Needless to say, it’s essential that the final coat is dry before replacing your furnishings or starting to re-use the room.

Mosaic Wood Floors

Mosaic wood floors are the same as parquet floors.  Made up of small blocks or strips of wood, mosaic wood floors normally take the form of either a herringbone, block or lozenge pattern.  Dating back to the mid to late 1600’s, mosaic or parquet wood flooring is widely associated with Versailles and the Grand Trianon.  Originally introduced to cover cold tiles, mosaic or parquet wood flooring is less common now than it was only a few decades ago.

Commonly made up of a mixture of woods such as oak, walnut, cherry, lime, pine or maple, mosaic wood floors can be as complex or as simple as the imagination and the abilities of the fitter. Not normally a project associated with DIY, mosaic wood floors can look really appealing in the right setting.  Originally made exclusively from solid wood, mosaic wood floors nowadays can also be made from engineered wood flooring.  The fitting of mosaic or parquet flooring relies on a tongue and groove system to fit together neatly.

Mosaic or parquet flooring is normally a fairly complicated design which can either be achieved using small blocks or strips of individual species of wood or using a custom cut mosaic wood floor kit.  Either way, herringbone mosaic flooring installation is not for the feint hearted.  A highly skilled art, if this is something you plan to try out yourself, it’s best to test out your skills by practising on a small area before tackling the whole floor.

If you are planning to install a mosaic wood floor yourself you need to plan your pattern carefully unless you’ve bought a pre-determined kit.  You should test the laying of your flooring along the longest straight wall in the room.  This will give you a guide for future rows. Check the positioning by laying out a row to take you right across the room.  Once you are happy that your first pattern is in the correct position, mark the floor and start to lay your whole panels.  Only once all your whole panels are laid should you think about cutting part panels and cutting into corners and around pipes and doorframes.  A good idea to avoid waste is to make a cardboard template of difficult or unusual shapes and checking its fit before marking the panel and subsequently cutting it.

Once all your panels are laid, you should sand the entire area to make sure it is smooth and then treat your mosaic wood floor as you would any other new wooden floor, by treating it and sealing it according to your desired style.